How to bleed atv brakes

how to bleed atv brakes

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Oct 12,  · A) Normal way to bleed brakes on ATV Remove cap from hand brake reservoir. Keep fluid in reservoir about 1/16" to top, now locate bleeder valve on caliber at rear brake. . May 06,  · Polaris Sportsman Replacement Master Cylinder on Amazon - Bleeding Kit on Amazon - video is a quick.

B These systems have a small amount fluid. So if the normal way seems not to be working, then you will have to bleed the brakes by a method we called "back way bleeding". This is because the atv brake system moves a small amount of brake fluid. Any questions please call. Thank you Jeff FamilyGoKarts. Now to bleed the normal way: Squeeze hand brake lever to 2- times-stop by holding lever tightly to handle bar as if you are applying brakes.

This will start to get the air out of the system. Leave open for about 10 seconds and then close. Now re-pump handle bar lever 3 times holding to handle bars again and now reach back and open bleeder screw again, 10 seconds. Do this over and over until all air is removed, this will harden the brakes. Do not lose patience this will take some time. System bleeds slowly as it is so small.

You will need a hand held Oil Squirt Can. Make sure it is completely cleaned out with no gas or oil in the can. Pump how to get legendary pokemon in pokedex 3d can's handle so brake fluid squirts out and all the air is out so when you squeeze the handle brake fluid comes out. Then put a rubber hose over the end of the Squirt Can nozzle.

About 3" long. On the back of the atv you have a bleeder nut rear end. You will need to open this. Connect the rubber hose of the oil can to the bleeder.

Take the cap of the reservoir. Remove the two Phillips screws. Put one or two rags under the reservoir as brake fluid will come out and we do not want the brake fluid damage the ATV body. Then pump brake fluid in the system with the oil can. Do this slowly. You have to get all the air out of the line.

Once all the air is out tighten the brake bolt and put the cap on the reservoir. Then tighten the bleeder on the rear axle. Work the system. It will take about 5 to 12 minutes before the brakes will be back. Article is closed for comments.

What does bleeding the brakes mean after all?

Oct 16,  · Once you've opened and closed the bleeder, your helper can let go of the brake. This will push air to the caliper and hold it there. When you open the screw, the air is released and brake fluid starts getting sucked down the line. You will need to repeat this several times. Mar 23,  · i show you how to bleed the brakes on your mesmmdaten.come-- Feb 18,  · Bleed the brakes as normal to remove the last bit of air. Either use the manual pump and release method or use a vacuum bleeder. Reverse bleeding is not recommended at this point as this will only press the small amount of air that’s left back into the master cylinder. Alternative method – using the banjo bolt as a bleed valve.

After rebuilding or replacing the master cylinder on your ATV, you will need to bleed it separately to get all of the air out. The same applies if you bleed your brakes and accidentally let the brake fluid reservoir run dry, allowing huge amounts of air to enter the system.

Here you can see the banjo bolt still connected to the brake fluid reservoir. Open the banjo bolt using the wrench. Remove the bolt from the cylinder. Most of the brake fluid will stay inside the reservoir even after removing the banjo bolt. Use your finger to cover the hole where the banjo bolt was sitting. Remember to wear gloves. Use your finger to cover the exposed outlet port. Start pumping the brake gently. Slightly release the pressure with your finger covering the hole to allow fluid to escape.

You must do your best not to let any air back into the hole at this stage. Continue this process for a few pumps. Add more fluid before it runs low. Repeat until there is no more air coming out with the brake fluid. You should be able to feel when this happens with your finger. Keep the finger pressed firmly against the opening when you are done.

Grab the banjo bolt with your free hand, and get ready to thread it in the hole as effectively as you can. Remove the finger and thread the bolt all the way.

Remove your finger and insert the banjo bolt as fast as you can. Tighten according to factory spec; it should be snug. Top off the reservoir and reinstall the reservoir cover. Bleed the brakes as normal to remove the last bit of air. Either use the manual pump and release method or use a vacuum bleeder. Alternative method — using the banjo bolt as a bleed valve A variation of the above methods is when you, instead of controlling the fluid stream with your finger, use the banjo bolt as a bleed valve.

Then pump the brake lever as you do when manually bleed the brakes. But instead of opening the bleed valve by the caliper, you open the banjo bolt until the brake fluid starts sputtering out. Re-apply pressure and open the banjo bolt again. Continue until you get a sputter-free stream of brake fluid. Then bleed the brakes normally. You should now be able to build proper pressure.

This method may be a bit messier, so make sure you use plenty of rags to keep your ATV protected. Here is another tip to try. Instead of letting the brake fluid squirt out of the banjo bolt and down onto a rag, you can direct it back up into the reservoir. Insert a piece of clear tubing into the outlet port on the reservoir and put the other end of the tube down into the master cylinder. Continue until you see only clear brake fluid inside the clear tube. When you are done, install the banjo bolt quickly, so as little air as possible gets into the system.

Top off the brake fluid reservoir and leed the brakes as normal. Brake fluid is corrosive and will damage paint and plastic. Another benefit of bleeding the reservoir on the bench is that you are free to rotate it so that the outlet port can be facing upwards when you are done bleeding.

This way, you can better prevent air from getting back into the system during installation. The banjo bolt can be installed with the port still facing upwards before fastening the master cylinder to the handlebar again. Ultimately it is up to you whether you want to bleed the master cylinder when still attached to the handlebar or if you want to remove the whole assembly and perform the job over at your workbench.

The same tools as the first method. Also, you need the proper tools to remove the master cylinder from the handlebar. This varies between the brands and models of ATVs. The procedure is pretty much identical with bleeding the master cylinder when still attached to the bike. But before you begin, you need to remove the whole assembly from the ATV. Depending on what model you get, these can be used for both pressing brake fluid through the master cylinder or sucking brake fluid down by utilizing vacuum.

The tool comes with a rubber adapter that can be inserted into the outlet hole on the reservoir. Follow the tool directions and press brake fluid back into the master cylinder assembly until no more bubbles appear in the reservoir. Alternatively, you can switch the tool over to vacuum and suck brake fluid down from the reservoir and into the too through the same outlet port. If this does not help, you likely have a bad master cylinder and need to rebuild it to get it to start pumping again.

The rear brakes on many ATVs will have their own master cylinder. To bleed it properly, it is best to remove it and properly bench bleed it. After getting such a large amount of air into the master cylinder, you will likely have difficulty getting it all out with just the manual ways of pump-bleeding. That is if you can get it to start pumping fluid at all. Inside the master cylinder, there are a lot of pockets and passages where air can get trapped.

The flow of brake fluid alone will not be able to reach it all and get it out. Also, you are fighting gravity. All of the air inside the system wants to go up and into the master cylinder. Vacuum bleeding may work, but not always. Air may still be trapped within these passages, even after performing a proper vacuum bleed. But it is worth trying if you already own a vacuum bleeder or can borrow one.

You may be lucky and achieve a decent result by just adding fluid and bleeding as normal. But you will likely spend less time and get a better overall result if you bleed the master cylinder properly right away. Sign in. Log into your account. Privacy Policy. Password recovery. Forgot your password? Get help.

Which Are Not? Or Slower? How Long Do They Last? Good, Reduced, or…. How to bleed an ATV master cylinder. In this post, we will have a look at 6 alternative ways of doing this procedure. Tools required: To perform this job, you need almost no tools.

All you need is: A screwdriver or hex wrench to open the brake fluid reservoir lid. A wrench that fits the banjo bolt. Brake-fluid according to manufacturer specs. The quality should be listed on the brake fluid reservoir lid or in your manual. Dot 4 is common on ATVs. A few rags to prevent spilling brake fluid on the plastic or paint on your bike, as this will create permanent damage. Latex gloves. Brake fluid is corrosive and may damage your skin.

This is how you do it: Open the brake fluid reservoir lid and diaphragm. Be careful; the bolts strip easily. Place plenty of rags to soak up the brake fluid being bled. Pull back the rubber cap covering the banjo bolt. Step 1 to 4 is identical as above. Use the banjo bolt as a bleed valve. Use a piece of tube to direct the brake fluid back into the reservoir. Make sure it is completely submerged at all times. Then start pumping. Tools required: The same tools as the first method.

This is how you do it: The procedure is pretty much identical with bleeding the master cylinder when still attached to the bike. Place a rag underneath to soak any spilled brake fluid.

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